Chablis Les Clos Vincent Dauvissat 1996

- Palish straw-yellow color; less bright than some vintages in this tasting. (I've seen published tasting notes on this wine dating back as far as a decade that described it as distinctly golden in color, but not this bottle!) Rather wild aromas of hawthorn, acacia flower, chalk and cedar, plus a hint of truffle; not about fruit. Powerful, large-scaled and penetrating on the palate; densely packed but a bit disjointed owing to its combination of sweetness and bracing acidity. Conveys a rare impression of solidity for Chablis, suggesting that it will live on in bottle for many more years. But will it ever truly be fun to drink? Dauvissat noted that there was not a lot of juice in the press in '96, and the wine is clearly high in dry extract. This wine actually finished its malolactic fermentation after the '97 Clos did, and it was bottled later than that wine. (Dauvissat described this wine as le monstre--a bit special for its combination of huge alcohol, gras and very high acidity; he picked what he described as a normal crop on September 23 with potential alcohol ranging from 12.5% to 14.5% and the wine finished with between 5 and 5.5 grams per liter acidity)