Penfolds Grange 1994

- Proprietor of Château Séraphin, Martin Krajewski, opened two bottles of 1994 Penfolds Grange from his cellar. I must admit, I was completely entranced. Perhaps, having marinated my palate in prenatal claret over the previous week, my senses exaggerated its virtues, but I don’t think so. This was a blend of 89% Shiraz and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon with fruit sourced from Barossa (Kalimna Vineyard), McClaren Vale and Coonawarra. Lucid ruby in hue, it offers red plum, kirsch and fresh fig, touches of sandalwood and light marmalade scents. So sensual and yet beautifully delineated. The palate has a viscous texture on the entry, perfectly balanced. This is a wine that convinces upon the first sip that it has reached its apex. It’s deep and caressing, with layers of slightly confit-like red fruit with allspice and subtle tertiary and mocha notes on the finish. Every drop is savored. I am no expert on Australian wine, but the Coonawarra component seems to be the most expressive. This is, frankly, one of the best vintages of Australia’s iconic wine that I have ever tasted.