Bonnes Mares Georges Roumier 2005

Christophe Roumier’s 2005 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru performed exactly how I expected. Still youthful in appearance, it has a fabulous bouquet with blueberry, raspberry coulis, violet and incense notes, a touch of sous-bois that surfaces with time. This is exuberant and sumptuous if still very young. The palate is medium-bodied and perhaps more backward than the aromatics. This is underpinned by tightly-wound tannins that feel a tad obdurate, a little more black fruit than I expected with a touch of white pepper, a more sinewy take on Bonnes-Mares that requires six to eight more years in bottle. Don’t touch for now. Tasted at Taillevent restaurant in Paris. - Neil Martin