Hedonism Meets… Celia Welch

Celia Welch, Winemaker at Scarecrow talks to the Hedonism team about the story behind this iconic Californian vineyard, situated at the base of the Mayacamas mountain range. Established in 2003, the Scarecrow name and label pays tribute to the endearing and indomitable character from the much-loved The Wizard of Oz film, whilst the wines are a testament to the outstanding quality that the Napa Valley can produce. Read on to discover more…

For readers new to Scarecrow Wines can you tell us a little about the story that lies behind the winery? 

The Scarecrow vineyard began in 2003 when Bret Lopez purchased approximately 100 acres in Rutherford from a family trust, including his grandfather’s summer home and gardens as well as 25 acres of bearing vineyard, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon.  Bret initially desired the property because of his fond childhood memories associated with the beautiful and historic home, but quickly realized that the grapes were of exceptional quality and deserved to be produced as a stand-alone wine.

Scarecrow is located in Rutherford, Napa Valley – can you tell us a bit about your different vineyards and how you believe terroir has an impact on the style of wines you produce? 

Scarecrow is produced from one single 25-acre vineyard which is sub-divided into 13 individual blocks.  Our location near the base of the Mayacamas mountain range means we have ample rainfall most winters, gently sloping vineyard rows with great sun exposure, and a very healthy natural mix of stony soils with some organic material mixed in.  The influence of San Francisco bay gives us occasional morning fog during the summer months, then sunny afternoons.  

Winemaker for over 30 years, how did you come to be winemaker at Scarecrow?

Prior to the start of the Scarecrow brand, the fruit from the property was being sold to a number of different wineries, including one of my clients.  Bret Lopez called me in early 2003 to ask me about potentially being his winemaker, and I let him know I had a few barrels of wine that had been made from his vines.  I offered him a small taste of the wine I’d crafted, and he very much liked it.   Bret and his wife Mimi DeBlasio are not only wonderful, creative, passionate vintners, but they are also lovely and generous people, and the entire team at Scarecrow have become friends as well as colleagues within the very cordial business environment that Bret and Mimi have created.

“M. Étain was created to show that the estate can do more than simply make an outstanding 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.” 

Can you tell our readers a little about the M. Étain range? 

M. Étain was created to show that the estate can do more than simply make an outstanding 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.  We historically had Merlot and Petit Verdot on the estate, and I asked to have a small corner block of Malbec planted as well.  M. Étain incorporates all four varieties into a Cabernet-based blended wine that highlights the range and complexity that the estate can offer. 

Here at Hedonism we stock a range of Scarecrow vintages from 2006 through to 2019. What are the stand out recent vintages in your opinion and why?  

Well, of course the highly-touted vintages, 2007, 2013, 2014, 2016 and 2019 certainly are highly popular.  Personally, I love surprising folks with the vintages that were not universally exceptional…in several vertical tastings the 2011, which was a much cooler year than normal for Napa, has been a standout due to its bright fresh fruit notes in a slightly more elegant structure.  On more than one occasion it has trumped the riper, denser vintages.

“Malbec adds richness, Petit Verdot adds core strength, Merlot adds brightness to the aromatics and fresh acidity to the midpalate.”

The key grape varieties you work with include Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot – what do these different varieties bring to your wines? 

Each one of the blending components compliments the M. Étain Cabernet base by adding different aromatic and textural components. Malbec adds richness, Petit Verdot adds core strength, Merlot adds brightness to the aromatics and fresh acidity to the midpalate.   Balancing all four varieties is an exciting challenge that I enjoy every year, in part because each vintage is different so there is not, cannot be a recipe for the blend.  

You manage to juggle being winemaker for a number of different wineries in addition to Scarecrow. What do you seek to keep consistent/deem as most important in your winemaking approach across the board? 

Yes, I work with a limited number of clients around Napa Valley to craft wines from small estate vineyards.  While each vineyard offers its own identity and personality in terms of the resulting wines, I do try to make sure that every wine I create can be enjoyed near-term and, equally, will improve with cellaring.  

How long would you consider cellaring Scarecrow wines for? Do you think the wines benefit from further time in bottle? 

I am asked this question often, and have a tough time answering it.  The individual wine collector knows his / her own palate best, and has an opinion about the right balance of fresh, juicy young flavours and the complexity and tertiary aromas / flavours that can only come with time.  Where you like that balance best is one point on a continuum, and is a very individual preference.  

What would be your go-to wine from the Scarecrow range? What food would you pair it with? 

I recently celebrated a personal success with a 2007 Scarecrow and an amazing ribeye steak with wild rice pilaf.  This may all sound a bit obvious but it’s a classic pairing for good reason.  The meal was delicious beyond any words I can use to describe it.

Are there any exciting new products on the cards at Scarecrow that you might be able to share with us?   

Ha!  Stay tuned, the team has fun coming up with surprise offerings and we’re always working on something that we know our fans will love!