Anniversary Vintages

While in most cases it is too early to say how wines from the present decade will turn out, one thing we can say about the vintages so far is that they have been characterised by unpredictable and extreme weather. In France, 2024 was one of the wettest vintages on record; a year earlier, the country experienced unprecedented heat. The best estates in Bordeaux managed the 2023 heat spikes well, producing classically styled wines that should cellar well. 2023 Sauternes should also be wines to treasure. Napa enjoyed a stellar 2023. Cabernets and Bordeaux-style blends from this vintage are eminently cellar-worthy.

The 2022 vintage was generally positive for both Old and New World wine regions, despite erratic weather in places. Generous yet balanced wines emerged from Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Rhône Valley. Bordeaux enjoyed one of the finest vintages of the last 50 years, wines from the Right Bank providing a particular highlight. Arguably the best results of the 2021 vintage were in Piedmont, where Nebbiolo had a fine year, producing Barolos and Barbarescos of great finesse. The hot, dry lockdown 2020 vintage yielded full-bodied, ageworthy Bordeaux wines.

For most major wine regions, the 2010s began with arguably the finest vintage of the 21st century: 2010 yielded memorably powerful, structured wines in Bordeaux (including Sauternes), Burgundy (white and red), the Rhône Valley, Piedmont and Rioja.

2019 was also a highly noteworthy vintage, bringing consistently fine wines across the world: stellar Bordeaux and Burgundies, exemplary Barolos, Barbarescos and Brunellos, fine Riojas and Riberas, gorgeous Mosel and Rheingau Rieslings. Bordeaux producers were buoyed by a succession of positive years during this decade: as well as 2010, 2015, 2016 and 2018 all proved outstanding, while 2012, 2014 and 2019 should all be considered very good – and undervalued. In Burgundy, the 2010s was a decade of considerable quality though with reduced yields affecting availability and, in turn, price. In addition to 2010, 2012, 2015, 2016 and 2019 were all successful; 2014, particularly notable for whites, is undervalued. The Rhône Valley enjoyed a hat-trick of back-to-back fine vintages towards the end of the decade, from 2017 to 2019.

The noughties was a period of increasing global temperatures and generally of riper wine vintages. While not uniformly brilliant, the majority of this decade produced good, age-worthy wines in the world’s classic regions. To some critics, this was one of the greatest decades in the history of Bordeaux. Banner vintages include 2005 and 2009, both of which produced wines of ripeness, structure and profound ageability on both Left and Right Banks; the millennium vintage, much heralded upon release, also turned out to be uncommonly good. 2009 was a vintage to remember for many Old World wine regions. Lower than average yields aside, Burgundy celebrated a vintage characterised by opulent Pinot Noirs that continue to age gracefully to this day.

As in Bordeaux, the hot 2005 vintage was also one for lovers of ripe, rich styles of Burgundy and Rhône. For the latter, it is considered a benchmark year comparable to the legendary 1978 and 1990. 2006 (classic) and 2007 (hedonistic) were also high-quality Rhône vintages. Vintage 2002 stood out as one of the decade’s best for Champagne; Sauternes excelled in 2001, 2005, 2007 and 2009; Port in 2000, 2003 and 2007. The noughties was a decade of ups and downs in Piedmont: 2000 was good, 2001 historically good; 2004, 2006 and 2008 are also worth holding for the long term.

The decade began auspiciously, with 1990 proving to be exceptional, at times legendary, across Old World and New World regions. Bordeaux reds (particularly those from the Right Bank) from this vintage are still drinking superbly. Vintage 1996 produced long-aged Bordeaux wines that continue to command high prices. Those of the Médoc just shade those from St-Emilion and Pomerol. 1990 and 1998 were also highlights in an otherwise variable decade for Bordeaux.

In the Côte d’Or, to varying degrees forgettable 1992, 1994, 1995 and 1997 vintages were contrasted by better 1991 and 1996, and exceptionally high quality and ageworthiness in vintage 1990, 1993 and 1999.

The 1980s were a rollercoaster decade for wine vintages globally, bookended by a weak start and a stunning finish, with a contender for vintage of the century – 1982 – in between. 1980 and 1981 brought challenging weather across much of the Old World. Then came a showstopper: 1982 was characterised by an ideal growing season and unprecedented levels of physiological ripeness in Bordeaux, yielding some of the finest, most long-lived wines the region has ever produced.

The perfect conditions of this banner year in Bordeaux were mirrored in Piedmont and Tuscany, where powerful and exceptionally long-aged Barolo, Barbaresco and Tuscan reds abounded. Rioja told a similar story. Vintage 1983 was one to forget for dry Bordeaux and Burgundy, but one to remember for Sauternes, Northern Rhône Syrah – look for rich, full-bodied reds from Hermitage and Côte-Rotie – and Port. While Hurricane Hortensia wrote off 1984 across most of Europe, there was a major upturn in 1985 with excellent vintages for Bordeaux, Burgundy, the Rhône and Champagne. Indeed, 1985 is widely regarded as the Champagne vintage of the decade.

The 1970s was an underwhelming decade for wine, with notable exceptions. This was the decade in which California began to establish itself as a fine wine producing region in the aftermath of Steven Spurrier’s groundbreaking Judgement of Paris tasting.

It began promisingly, with 1970 and 1971 proving to be successful across most Old World wine regions. Well-kept Bordeaux from 1970 are among the most sought-after examples from this decade. 1970 vintage Ports were also a standout (as were 1977s), while 1971 was one of the best of the last half-century in Germany. 1971 was especially good for the sweet wines of Sauternes, which also enjoyed back-to-back successes in 1975-1976.

Two wine vintages immediately stand out from the swinging 1960s: 1961 and 1966. Near-perfect growing season despite reduced yields made 1961 a banner year for Bordeaux from both banks. Many critics would call it the best on record. The quality of Barolos and Brunello di Montalcinos also reached a high level in 1961.

For Port lovers, 1960 hit the bullseye, with most quintas declaring a vintage and the best examples now highly sought-after. 1966 Port was not far behind. The 1964 vintage was excellent in most of France, but truly legendary in Rioja, for which it was arguably the best vintage of all time, with wines of unprecedented concentration and longevity.

1950 was outstanding in Bordeaux, in particular for wines from the Right Bank. The region came down to earth with a bump the following year, however, when persistent wet, cold conditions produced one of the worst vintages in history.

1952 was Burgundy’s year, producing classically styled wines with the structure for long-term cellaring. Though few and far between, the best will still make for fascinating drinking. Soft, elegant wines were made throughout France in 1953 but most will be well past their best. 1954 was forgettable, not least for Bordeaux, which endured a cold summer and rain-soaked harvest.