Vintage 2009

The abiding theme for this near-perfect year in Bordeaux is opulence. A long, warm, dry growing season produced wines that showed exceptional concentration and ripeness while maintaining balance. The 2009 grands vins of the best classified growths were, to an extent greater than in most vintages, made for the long haul.

Médoc reds fared especially well. The deep gravel soils of Pauillac St-Estèphe and St-Julien facilitated a rare level of phenolic ripeness while retaining freshness. On the Right Bank, 2009 produced lush, opulent wines, especially from the moisture-retaining blue clay soils of Pomerol.

2009 was not just a superb year for Bordeaux, but for Bordeaux-style wines across the globe. Both Napa and Tuscany (ie, Super Tuscans) experienced a banner year for their signature reds, which are now settling into their prime drinking window.

Much excitement also greeted the release of 2009 Burgundy. The vintage produced an exceptionally healthy crop across all appellations of the Côte d’Or and those growers who vinified for freshness (ie, to retain acidity) were rewarded with wines that remain seductive today.

In Italy, 2009 was an outstanding, vintage for ageworthy Barolo, Barbaresco and Chianti, while in Portugal conditions were sufficiently favourable for the Fladgate Partnership to declare a classic Port Vintage.

Undoubtedly, though, the laurels go to the Médoc, whose 2009 wines continue to shimmer with a rare brilliance that makes them catnip for connoisseurs.