Volnay Santenots du Milieu Comtes Lafon 2007
HED39290
75 cl
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92 Vinous
91 Robert Parker
Dominique Lafon’s vineyards were hit hard by the July, 2008 hail, with his largest site – Santenots du Milieu – worst hit, and reduced in production by two-thirds, all of which he bottled together, rather than (as more usually) declassifying the young vines portion to village Volnay. Crop loss was due to dehydration as well, a factor compounded by late harvest. (“But before October,” relates Lafon, “the fruit simply was not ripe.”) Lafon’s chagrin – coming on the heels of two challenging vintages for Pinot – was more than assuaged, though, by the superb quality of his Meursaults in both 2007 and 2008 (on which I shall report soon in these pages).
A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70; A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677 9300; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, tel. (781) 352 1100; Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 — David Schildknecht, 29th June 2010
16 Jancis Robinson
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Domaine des Comtes Lafon
A Singular Vision
Domaine des Comtes Lafon is widely considered to produce some of the world's greatest Chardonnay. Currently managed by fourth generation family member Dominique Lafon, who inherited the winery from his father René in the mid 1980s, Comtes Lafon own and source fruit from many of the greatest cru in the region - including Charmes, Clos de la Barre and Montrachet.
Dominique pursued a policy of converting all vineyards under Comtes Lafon's stewardship over to traditional farming methods - moving first to fully organic in 1995 and on to biodynamic in 1998. The average age of vines is around 40 years with yields kept low to ensure quality. Alongside his world class Chardonnay, Dominique also produces Premier Cru Volnay in limited quantities - a relatively new addition to the winery's portfolio, they are swiftly gaining a cult following.