Musigny Georges Roumier 2012
HED52893
75 cl
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95 Vinous
Jancis Robinson
Christophe Roumier was multitasking when I arrived at his domaine in Chambolle-Musigny: his mobile constantly trilling and tasting parties arriving in haphazard fashion, running here and running there. And as we know, men are not cut out for multitasking. No wonder he complained about his headache, though hopefully the aspirin, washed down with a glug of Musigny, relieved his mal de tete. But generally Christophe Roumier was in top form – just like his wines. He commenced the harvest on 22 September after the usual travails of the growing season that reduced his crops. He rued the fact that he is undergoing an expansion of his cellars, but after 2012 and a meagre 2013, has little to put in them. He suggested a comparison between 2010 and 2012, though the latter is less tannic and more “weightless” – a great word to describe many of this vintage’s wines. This year there is all but one and a half barrels of his elusive Musigny. It is an utterly transcendental wine, perhaps equal to the 2005 when I encountered that out of barrel, but if that proves just a wee bit difficult to find, then the Clos de la Bussieres is a quite brilliant Morey Saint Denis that will offer immense pleasure over the next 20 years. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600Neal Martin30th December 2013
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Domaine Georges Roumier
A Icon of Fine Burgundy
One of Burgundy's most famous producers - founded in 1924 by Georges Roumier, the domaine was passed to his son Jean-Marie in 1957 and eventually on to his grandson Christophe in the early 1990s. Vines are either rented from family members or managed on a share-cropping basis and the cellar team operate a dynamic approach to winemaking, subtly altering their techniques depending on the vineyard and vintage. Some fruit is fully destemmed before fermentation while some is partially destemmed. A cool maceration takes place before fermentation, which takes place in wooden vats, and punch downs happen twice a day. Use of new oak is judicious - only around 20% for the village wines, 35% for the Premier Crus and 50% for the Grand Crus.
If Georges Roumier only produced Chambolle-Musigny, Bonnes Mares and Clos St Denis, the winery would still be considered one of the greatest in Burgundy, but their other-worldly Musigny Grand Cru elevates their status among the great wineries of France to legendary.