Clos St Denis Cuvee Tres Vieilles Vignes Ponsot 2009
HED03825
75 cl
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95 Robert Parker
This set of 2009s from Laurent Ponsot was among the finest I tasted. The wines are simply dazzling from top to bottom. Ponsot was among the last to harvest in 2009, essentially starting when most, if not all, of his colleagues already had the fruit in their cellars. The fruit was 100% destemmed and the wines were vinified in oak vats. The wines were then racked into barrel for the malos, where many of them stayed with no further rackings. There is no new oak at Ponsot. The barrels range from 5 to 50 years of age. The range now includes a head spinning eleven Grand Crus, which now total an astonishing 70% of the estate’s total production. Ordinarily I would suggest cellaring the top 2009s for a minimum of 15 years or so, but now that Ponsot is bottling all of his wines with synthetic plastic corks made in Italy it is hard to know exactly how the wines will develop. I tasted all of the 2009s from barrel, where they had been aging since finishing their malolactic fermentations.
Importer. Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
18 Jancis Robinson
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Domaine Ponsot
Burgundian Pioneers
An estate that looms large in the mythology of Burgundy. Domaine Ponsot were early adopters of the practice of estate-bottling in the 1930s and also pioneered research into clonal selection - a key aspect of modern viticulture. Up until 2017, the domaine was under the stewardship of Laurent Ponsot, who did much to promote his family's wines. Laurent took what he saw as the best of organic and biodynamic practices without ever pursuing formal certification. On paper, the approach in the winery seems almost spartan - no sorting table at the cellar, fermentation is proceeds according to the whims of the native yeasts, absolutely no new wood is used during maturation and bottling takes place in line with a particular lunar phase.
While this approach might seem esoteric, the high quality of the wines and the praise they receive is universal. The Grand Cru wines are some of the finest in the Côte d'Or - concentrated, powerful and intense, all made with fruit from 50+ year vines. While Laurent may have moved on, his sister Rose-Marie has continued to maintain quality as sole proprietor of Domaine Ponsot.