Chablis Les Clos William Fevre 2004
Chablis Les Clos William Fevre 2004
HED7174
75 cl
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96 Jancis Robinson
Note: All the William Fevre wines tasted for this report are “domaine” bottlings, from the estate’s 40 hectares of vines (98.84 acres), which is clearly marked on the label. There are also Maison William Fevre – negociant – bottlings, none of which were tasted.
The rapidity with which Joseph Henriot turned around this once moribund estate is remarkable. Under the supervision and winemaking of super-talented Didier Seguier (from Cucq-Les-Vielmur in France’s southwest, near Castres), Domaine William Fevre has been catapulted into the top echelon of Chablis’s producers (and if you don’t believe me, just ask Vincent Dauvissat or Bernard Raveneau).
Didier Seguier attributes the estate’s success in 2004 to two key factors, “the fact that we treated the vines early and therefore did not have oidium problems,” and, just as importantly, “our yields were lower than most because this estate’s vines are over 40 years old and cannot produce plethoric quantities.” On average, across the entire estate, William Fevre harvested 60-65 hectoliters per hectares, 10-15% less than two of this region’s most famous stars, Vincent Dauvissat and the Raveneau brothers. Though Seguier loves his 2004s (“They are precise, classical Chablis.”), his preference is for the 2002s, “the finest vintage I’ve experienced.”
Importer: Henriot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6700
94 Vinous
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Domaine William Fevre
Chablis with exceptional terroir focus
Domaine William Fèvre, located in the prestigious Chablis region of Burgundy, has a legacy spanning over 250 years. Established in 1959, William Fèvre is one of the biggest landowners in Chablis, with just under 80 hectares of vineyards. Of these, 15.9 hectares are classified as Premier Cru, and 15.2 hectares as Grand Cru. The domaine boasts holdings in six out of the seven Grand Crus, with Les Clos as the flagship, producing profound white wine Chardonnay with great structure, mineral depth, and ageability.
The Fèvre family, led by the eponymous William Fèvre, established a reputation for fine wine production. The estate was sold to the Champagne house Joseph Henriot in 1998, but the legacy of the Fèvre family continues under the guidance of former Bouchard cellar master Didier Séguier. Under his management, William Fèvre has become a benchmark for terroir-focused Chablis, continuing the tradition started by William Fèvre's father.
Since 2000, the domaine has expanded its vineyard holdings while intensifying its commitment to sustainable farming practices. The estate has also embraced organic cultivation methods, with the entire 78 hectares estate becoming organic-certified in 2023. Careful oak management is central to William Fèvre’s terroir-driven style: Premier Cru wines are vinified in 40-50% French oak barrels; Grand Crus in 70-80%, without new wood.
