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Von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer GG 2017
HED13421
75 cl
13%
£45.00
Taxes included.
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Von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer Riesling GG 2017 is a Grand Cru Riesling from the Pfalz region. From a vineyard characterised by basalt, limestone and sandstone soils, the 2017 vintage displays an intense nose of dried apricot, lemon oil and a distinct smoky minerality. On the palate, it is full-bodied and structured by a vibrating acidity that cuts through the rich fruit. The finish is long, saline and complex, reflecting the unique volcanic influence of the Ungeheuer site.
94
Vinous
Here’s one of those von Buhl Rieslings strikingly dominated by animal and mineral elements. Musk and sweat share aromatic billing with struck flint and chicken stock that I would more usually associate with Chablis. The palate is hit by zesty lemon and sizzling radish, while the oily, smoky, meaty, musky and saline elements continue to deliver head-scratching complexity of the sort that makes one wonder how something like this could even come from grapes. The prodigious finish adds oyster liquor, iodine and crushed stone, leaving my salivary glands wrung out. To quote Otto von Bismarck’s alleged tribute: “This Ungeheuer is ungeheuer [uncanny]!” How nice, given quality like this, that von Buhl’s 3.5 hectares represent nearly three-quarters of the Ur-Ungeheuer. (A substantial share of the Ungeheuer Einzellage, north of the core, is now treated by the VDP as an Erste Lage as opposed to a Grosse Lage, and under the revived Gewannname “Ziegler.”) David Schildknecht1st March 2019
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