Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2002
HED97469
75 cl
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96 Robert Parker
I tasted a wide range of fabulous wines with Charles Philipponnat this year. Over the years, the knock on Philipponnat was that few of the entry and mid-level wines were consistent in quality with the flagship Clos des Goisses, one of the true icons of Champagne. I find that much less of an issue these days. One criticism I do have with Philipponnat is with the roses, which generally are made by adding still red wine to the blanc versions of those same Champagnes. While this method, called ‘assemblage,’ is quite common in Champagne, it is much less typical of estates that aspire to make world-class Champagnes, as Philipponnat does. At most of the top houses, the roses are made as stand alone wines, in other words, conceived and executed from the bottom up as their own entities rather than based off another wine.
Importers. The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484; Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
96 Vinous
17 Jancis Robinson
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Philipponnat
Champagne tradition with a modern twist
Based in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Philipponnat is a historic Champagne house that has been owned by the Lanson-BCC group since 1997. It was the first Champagne producer to clearly label its bottles with the main year used in a blend, along with the dosage and date of disgorgement. Among the Philipponnat range, the house's Royal Réserve Brut is a classic blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, with up to one-third of the blend coming from two ‘perpetual reserves’. This cuvée offers the perfect introduction to the house style. Royal Réserve Non Dosé and Rosé expressions are also made.
Cuvée 1522 commemorates the year when the Philipponnat family first began cultivating vineyards in the village of Aÿ. The blend typically consists of approximately 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay, with the majority of the grapes sourced from Premier and Grand Cru vineyards. The most powerful Champagne in the house's portfolio is Clos de Goisses, a prestige cuvée produced using grapes grown in a single walled vineyard on a pure chalk, south-facing hillside in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ.