Morey St Denis Cuvee des Alouettes Domaine Ponsot 2006

Morey St Denis Cuvee des Alouettes Domaine Ponsot 2006

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  • Robert Parker rating 91
  • Vinous rating 89
Morey St Denis Cuvee des Alouettes Domaine Ponsot 2006
2 left

HED03038

75 cl

13.5%
£200.00
Taxes included.

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Morey-Saint-Denis Cuvée des Alouettes 2006 from Domaine Ponsot is a Premier Cru red wine from the Morey-Saint-Denis appellation of Burgundy. Harvested from the steep, limestone-heavy Monts Luisants vineyard, this Pinot Noir displays the floral finesse characteristic of the site. Ponsot`s winemaking is famously idiosyncratic, involving old wooden vats and no new oak, allowing the terroir to express itself without interference. The 2006 has developed a complex secondary profile of dried roses and earthy spice. Because the estate avoids the use of new timber, the purity of the fruit and the specific stony mineral signature of the Alouettes parcel are front and centre, providing a wine of great soul and aromatic transparency.
91 Robert Parker
From Ponsot`s monopole Clos des Mont Luisants (virtually surrounded by grand crus, and which, he opines, represents as steep a slope as exists in the Cote de Nuits), the 2006 Morey-St.-Denis 1er Cru Cuvee des Alouettes exhibits a healthy, deep color; a nose of well-hung game, cassis, blackberry, and dark chocolate; a creamy richness rare in this vintage; and a low-toned finish in which the wine`s abundance of tannins becomes evident as a fine, subtly-abrasive though relatively well fruit-covered spread. The more this opened to the air, though, the more game-like notes dominated, so one should probably treat that as an omen for the wine`s future rather than a temporary manifestation of reduction which would in any case be rare at Ponsot where the wines are not sulfured.

Picking chez Ponsot began predictably late – on September 27 – and lasted until October 5. As might have been expected, Laurent Ponsot acted rigorously in the vineyards in the immediate aftermath of hail and eventually on the sorting table (overseen, he notes, by an especially meticulous team of three young women) to insure that any effects were minimized. (For some notes on the often unorthodox methods Ponsot employs, readers should consult my report in issue 170.)

Importer. Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
89 Vinous
Good deep red. Pungent spices, mocha, chocolate and black cherry on the nose; this could only be from Morey-Saint-Denis. Big and rich, with a captivating sweetness to the soil-driven notes of smoke, meat, iron and leather. The subtly long finish throws off notes of leather, smoke and spice. This wonderfully aromatic wine comes from 14-year-old vines planted within Ponsot's Clos des Monts Luisants, which is situated above Clos de la Roche.Stephen Tanzer1st March 2008

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Domaine Ponsot

Domaine Ponsot

Burgundian Pioneers

An estate that looms large in the mythology of Burgundy. Domaine Ponsot were early adopters of the practice of estate-bottling in the 1930s and also pioneered research into clonal selection - a key aspect of modern viticulture. Up until 2017, the domaine was under the stewardship of Laurent Ponsot, who did much to promote his family's wines. Laurent took what he saw as the best of organic and biodynamic practices without ever pursuing formal certification. On paper, the approach in the winery seems almost spartan - no sorting table at the cellar, fermentation is proceeds according to the whims of the native yeasts, absolutely no new wood is used during maturation and bottling takes place in line with a particular lunar phase.

While this approach might seem esoteric, the high quality of the wines and the praise they receive is universal. The Grand Cru wines are some of the finest in the Côte d'Or - concentrated, powerful and intense, all made with fruit from 50+ year vines. While Laurent may have moved on, his sister Rose-Marie has continued to maintain quality as sole proprietor of Domaine Ponsot.

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