Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2010
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Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2010
HED06183
75 cl
7.5%
£75.00
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Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2010 is a sweet white from the Saar. The Rausch vineyard is famous for its steep slopes and Devonian slate, which impart a piercing mineral tension to the wine. The 2010 vintage was marked by exceptionally high acidity and late-season concentration, providing the perfect framework for this Goldkapsel selection. It offers a complex bouquet of candied lime, apricot and honey, all cut through by a laser-like acidic spine that ensures perfect balance. Tertiary notes of petrol and wet stone are beginning to emerge, adding layers of profound depth.
97
Robert Parker
Figure on a good four decades of high-quality life. Zilliken’s 2010 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese gold capsule A.P. #4 was, he assures me, rendered in a volume closer to what would associate in normal years with a Spatlese than with even a regular Auslese. “Here there was a lot more botrytis, yet the fruit was lower in acidity” than for the “regular” Auslesen, he notes by way of among other things explaining this wine’s caramel overtones and creaminess of texture. The nobly fungal, carnal, and musky notes that characterized the A.P. #5 are present here in spades, another obvious legacy of its advanced botrytization. Ennobled richness of caramelized peach and mango; concentrated lime and pink grapefruit; honeysuckle, rowan and orange blossom; as well as creamy and caressing textural allure improbable for this vintage (and given what is still extremely high acidity) are here allied to the sort of transparency to stony, saline, smoky, and crystalline nuances that was otherwise achieved in the present collection only “way back” with the Spatlese A.P. #8 This finishes with a shimmering cascade of fruit essences and mineral matter. I imagine it will dazzle over the next half century.
Hanno and Dorothee Zilliken’s 2010 collection has served for some controversy in that they not only – like Schaefers in Graach – adopted the minority position that de-acidification should be to wine, not must, but also – in this respect unlike Schaefers – performed acid-adjustments throughout their residually sweet line-up. Not that the extreme nature of what they eventually bottled could possible fail in itself to raise eyebrows. To declare myself up front (not that this isn’t evident from my scores!). I found this year’s collection chez Zilliken utterly awesome and cannot imagine that somehow seeds of early decline or subsequent disappointment are harbored in any of these wines on account of their levels of acid having been trimmed from the perilous heights where nature had left them
Hanno and Dorothee Zilliken’s 2010 collection has served for some controversy in that they not only – like Schaefers in Graach – adopted the minority position that de-acidification should be to wine, not must, but also – in this respect unlike Schaefers – performed acid-adjustments throughout their residually sweet line-up. Not that the extreme nature of what they eventually bottled could possible fail in itself to raise eyebrows. To declare myself up front (not that this isn’t evident from my scores!). I found this year’s collection chez Zilliken utterly awesome and cannot imagine that somehow seeds of early decline or subsequent disappointment are harbored in any of these wines on account of their levels of acid having been trimmed from the perilous heights where nature had left them
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