Ermitage Blanc Cuvee de L`Oree Chapoutier 2010
HED83798
75 cl
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100 Robert Parker
In November of this year, Michel Chapoutier finally made the cover of The Wine Spectator. The accompanying article said essentially the same things I had written about over twenty years ago. More importantly, I am thrilled that Chapoutier received this attention because it has long been deserved. History will record that Michel Chapoutier is a revolutionary. He is also a highly emotional man whose infectious love of primitive art, historic books, classical music and, of course, terroir and winemaking are seemingly impossible to harness. Michel Chapoutier was among the first in France to embrace the radical biodynamic agricultural teachings, for which he was initially criticized, but is now praised. He was also the first to print all his labels in Braille, something that cynics considered to be a gimmick, but ask the National Association for the Blind what they think. Coming from a famous family, but moving in a direction unlike any of its previous members, Michel Chapoutier is self-taught. What he has accomplished over the last two decades or more is one of the great wine stories of the modern era. With all his outgoing, boisterous, machine-gun-speed prose that can sometimes sound shockingly cocky, and at other times reminiscent of the famous Lebanese poet Khalil Gibran, there is never a dull moment around Chapoutier., who makes comments such as “Filtering wine is like making love with a condom,” and “Acidifying wine is lik
94 Vinous
17 Jancis Robinson
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M. Chapoutier
Passion and Drive
One of the oldest producers in the Rhône Valley, M. Chapoutier was established in 1808. The arrival of a young Michel Chapoutier, who took over management of the family domaine in 1990, saw huge changes and a renewed drive for excellence, focussing especially on the diverse terroir of the Rhône. Michel has embraced biodynamic practices in recent years and attributes much of the increase in quality to this approach. The wines are generous and fruit-forward at the entry level, moving towards the sublime as we move up the quality ladder.
Two of the greatest wines in the portfolio are 'De L'Orée', an Hermitage Blanc made from 100% Marsanne and 'Le Pavillon', a full-bodied, expressive Hermitage rouge that effortlessly rubs shoulders with the world's greatest Syrah.