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Clos Saint-Denis was a church-owned vineyard during the Middle Ages, belonging to the Collégiale de St-Denis de Vergy. Today, the 6.6-hectare Grand Cru is shared by almost 20 owners, including high-profile producers such as Louis Jadot, Domaine Ponsot, Joseph Drouhin and the prestigious Domaine Dujac. This is their release from the 1996 vintage, which produced a large crop of very healthy grapes. On the nose, notes of black cherries, light earthiness, coffee beans and floral accents. The palate shows a wine of great depth and complexity, featuring sweet dark berries, cinnamon, smoke and a mineral edge.
The 1996 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru put in a fantastic showing - and this is from someone not totally convinced that the 1996s live up to their billing. Like many, this one has a distant, aloof bouquet of broody, brambly black fruit, chai, bay leaf and autumn leaves. But leave it 10–15 minutes and watch it transform into a gorgeous cornucopia of red berries and minerals, all wonderfully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, exuding the essence of “Pinoté,” and leading to an almost pixelated finish. Maybe this Clos Saint-Denis just took many years to show what it is capable of (which is a lot!). Superb. Tasted at the Clos Saint-Denis vertical at Hide restaurant. Neal Martin1st March 2020
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Domaine Dujac
A Focus on Terroir
Founded in the late 1960s by Jacques Seysses, who purchased and renovated Domaine Graillet in Morey-St-Denis. The estate is currently run by Jacques' sons Jeremy and Alec, who farm around 17 hectares of vines across the Côte including holdings in Echezeaux, Clos de la Roche, Charmes-Chambertin and Bonnes Mares.
A natural approach is taken in the vineyard and cellar with the estate moving from organic farming to fully biodynamic in the mid 2000s, receiving their certification in 2011. The team's focus is on elegance - temperatures are controlled to keep alcohol in check and also limit malolactic fermentation while juice from the crush is fed into the cellar by gravity only without the use of pumping. The wines of Domaine Dujac represent pure, balanced expressions of their respective terroirs.
