Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Domaine Ponsot 1995

Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Domaine Ponsot 1995

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£430.00
Regular price  £782.00
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  • Robert Parker rating 85
Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Domaine Ponsot 1995
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HED91700

75 cl

13.4%
Regular price  £782.00
Sale price 
£430.00 45% off
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Located in Morey-Saint-Denis, Domaine Ponsot is a family-run wine producer with most of its holdings in Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards. The estate was established by William Ponsot in 1872 and is now run by his descendant Rose-Marie Ponsot since 2017. Clos de la Roche is their top cuvée made from vines that are over 65 years old. The 1995 vintage yielded a small crop but produced high quality wines built for long ageing.
85 Robert Parker
In my article on Ponsot's 1995s out of barrel, I heaped considerable praise on the Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes, describing it as "prodigious", and going so far as to say that "I would not be surprised if it deserved a perfect rating!" At my recent tasting I found it to be light-to-medium ruby-colored with an amber edge. Its slightly alcoholic nose is reminiscent of cherry-flavored Bubbleyum bubblegum mixed with white pepper and grapefruit. On the palate, this wine is a pale shadow of its former self. Amidst an earthy, stony, red pit fruit-flavored, and medium-bodied core, there remains a ghost-like trace of the richness and ripeness I originally had seen in this wine. After it had been opened for 48 hours I re-visited it. To its credit, this Clos de la Roche had not deteriorated, yet it had not gotten any better either. I will not be drinking my remaining bottles in the near term as I want to see if Laurent Ponsot's assertion that these wines will regain their fruit in time is correct. However, I cannot recommend the same course of action to readers as I see no reason to believe that cellaring will help this wine.

Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802. — Pierre Rovani, 30th October 1999

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Burgundian Pioneers

An estate that looms large in the mythology of Burgundy. Domaine Ponsot were early adopters of the practice of estate-bottling in the 1930s and also pioneered research into clonal selection - a key aspect of modern viticulture. Up until 2017, the domaine was under the stewardship of Laurent Ponsot, who did much to promote his family's wines. Laurent took what he saw as the best of organic and biodynamic practices without ever pursuing formal certification. On paper, the approach in the winery seems almost spartan - no sorting table at the cellar, fermentation is proceeds according to the whims of the native yeasts, absolutely no new wood is used during maturation and bottling takes place in line with a particular lunar phase.

While this approach might seem esoteric, the high quality of the wines and the praise they receive is universal. The Grand Cru wines are some of the finest in the Côte d'Or - concentrated, powerful and intense, all made with fruit from 50+ year vines. While Laurent may have moved on, his sister Rose-Marie has continued to maintain quality as sole proprietor of Domaine Ponsot.

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