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Chablis Vaudesir Joseph Drouhin 2011
HED51720
75 cl
£88.10
Taxes included.
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92 Vinous
Dried pears, nutmeg and crushed flowers emerge from the Chablis Vaudesir. This is another rich, generous wine with plenty to offer in the way of texture. Expressive floral notes are the thread that holds all the elements in place. Like all the 2011s from Drouhin-Vaudon, it is the wine's balance, poise and harmony that stand out most. This is the most accessible of the estate's Grand Crus.Antonio Galloni1st August 2013
89 Jancis Robinson
The Drouhin Vaudon 2011 Chablis Vaudesir is surprisingly and a bit awkwardly marked by lanolin, resin and sawdust from barrel, which masks the alkaline and chalky mineral elements that can also be glimpsed. It arguably reinforces the bitter notes of citrus pip that this bottling shares with other of the estate’s 2011s; and cuts off what would otherwise almost certainly be more primary juiciness to its finish. On the positive side of the ledger, though, there is an impressive combination of density with levity on display here, and fresh citrus as well as mineral elements certainly stake some claim to the palate. Mery reports that for the most part once- or twice-used demi-muids are being employed for elevage, so the prominence of woody characteristics here is an inexplicable anomaly. I would want to revisit this in a year or so before making any further recommendation regarding cellaring.
The still delightfully rustic, old-fashioned, very discreetly-marked Moulin de Vaudon in Chichee that Robert Drouhin purchased in the 1960s as an act of faith in Chablis’s revival, and the vineyards he assembled scattered throughout that region, have been the under the eye of Loire-born Regisseur Denis Mery since 1990, while Frederic Drouhin nowadays sees to vinification. Mery emphasizes how lucky he is to have had his earliest training with the Gambier family in Bourgueil “because they were pre-chemical and I learned the ancient methods and vine treatments from them.” Today the Drouhin estate’s vines are biodynamically farmed and hand-manicured by a full-time crew of 24 – the grand crus and the Vaudesir with horse – and Mery was proud to show me his meticulously-kept viticultural records as well as the Drouhin Vaudon old vine holdings in Les Clos, which visitors will find a strikingly contrast to those of their immediate neighbors. As evidence of Mery’s creative, old-is-young-again anachronism, he has even planted a tiny stand near his home in Milly en echalas – i.e. trained to
The still delightfully rustic, old-fashioned, very discreetly-marked Moulin de Vaudon in Chichee that Robert Drouhin purchased in the 1960s as an act of faith in Chablis’s revival, and the vineyards he assembled scattered throughout that region, have been the under the eye of Loire-born Regisseur Denis Mery since 1990, while Frederic Drouhin nowadays sees to vinification. Mery emphasizes how lucky he is to have had his earliest training with the Gambier family in Bourgueil “because they were pre-chemical and I learned the ancient methods and vine treatments from them.” Today the Drouhin estate’s vines are biodynamically farmed and hand-manicured by a full-time crew of 24 – the grand crus and the Vaudesir with horse – and Mery was proud to show me his meticulously-kept viticultural records as well as the Drouhin Vaudon old vine holdings in Les Clos, which visitors will find a strikingly contrast to those of their immediate neighbors. As evidence of Mery’s creative, old-is-young-again anachronism, he has even planted a tiny stand near his home in Milly en echalas – i.e. trained to
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