Chablis Les Clos William Fevre 2011
Chablis Les Clos William Fevre 2011
HED93430
75 cl
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94 Jancis Robinson
Didier Seguier and his team (consult previous Wine Advocate reports on Chablis for much more about their strikingly successful methods) began picking already on September 20, 2012 and, with allowance for two days break due to rain, finished on October 2. Yields, especially in the upper classificatory echelons, were low – typically between 28 and 35 hectoliters per hectare (though in one instance a mere 18!) depending on cru. “The wines,” says Seguier – who’s obviously very bullish on them – “are consequently ripe, concentrated, and plenty rich, with natural alcohol between 12.8-13.2% and acidity as ample as that of 2010. They have the same level of minerality as the 2010s, too, but are even a little more concentrated.” While the 2011 harvest here – which began already at the end of August – broke all but 2003’s record, Seguier was at pains to point out that this is virtually where the similarities between those two vintages end, and that indeed, it was 2012, not 2011, that brought extreme heat – though then only in mid-August. Most of the Fevre 2012s did not finish malo until May, which Seguier attributes to the musts’ low pHs, a feature he points to as an index of their relatively high – hence felicitous – ratio of tartaric to malic acids. The premier crus were set to be bottled through the autumn; the grand crus in December or January. Fevre is completing the process of con
91 Vinous
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Domaine William Fevre
Chablis with exceptional terroir focus
Domaine William Fèvre, located in the prestigious Chablis region of Burgundy, has a legacy spanning over 250 years. Established in 1959, William Fèvre is one of the biggest landowners in Chablis, with just under 80 hectares of vineyards. Of these, 15.9 hectares are classified as Premier Cru, and 15.2 hectares as Grand Cru. The domaine boasts holdings in six out of the seven Grand Crus, with Les Clos as the flagship, producing profound white wine Chardonnay with great structure, mineral depth, and ageability.
The Fèvre family, led by the eponymous William Fèvre, established a reputation for fine wine production. The estate was sold to the Champagne house Joseph Henriot in 1998, but the legacy of the Fèvre family continues under the guidance of former Bouchard cellar master Didier Séguier. Under his management, William Fèvre has become a benchmark for terroir-focused Chablis, continuing the tradition started by William Fèvre's father.
Since 2000, the domaine has expanded its vineyard holdings while intensifying its commitment to sustainable farming practices. The estate has also embraced organic cultivation methods, with the entire 78 hectares estate becoming organic-certified in 2023. Careful oak management is central to William Fèvre’s terroir-driven style: Premier Cru wines are vinified in 40-50% French oak barrels; Grand Crus in 70-80%, without new wood.
