Chablis Christian Moreau 2011
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Chablis Christian Moreau 2011
HED9014
75 cl
£16.90
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90
Jancis Robinson
Lime and grapefruit dominate the generic Moreau 2011 Chablis, yet for all of its refreshing citricity, it is silky-smooth in texture. Inner-mouth freesia perfume and a hint of blueberry add allure while zesty citrus rind bitterness and a dash of salt lend invigoration to a superbly- sustained finish. Enjoy this outstanding exemplar of its ubiquitous appellation – not to mention fine value – through 2014. One secret of its success is no doubt that the purchased fruit on which it depends has come from the same growers and vines – some Right Bank, some from Les Pargues (prior to the advent of A.O.C. rightly deemed premier cru) – since 2002, giving the Moreaus a chance to influence the attendant viticulture and enforce high standards.
Christian and Fabien Moreau – for more about whose evolution consult inter alia my reports on their 2008s in issues 179, 186 and 191 – are now confidently in command of their medium and style, managing to derive richness and structure from contact with lees and oak for the most part without sacrificing the mineral dimension or refreshing primary juiciness nor the sense of clarity for which Chablis at its striking best is known. Among the success factors at what has already become one of the poster children for a new Chablis quality-consciousness are a distinctively different assortment of barrels and tonneliers as well as a tendency to permit an increased share of the wines’ elevages to take place in tank. But vineyard work – now organic – is almost certainly also playing an important role in the Moreau’s success story, and their notably successful 2011s perfectly illustrate Fabien Moreau’s own assessment that “apropos the level of tension exhibited in our wines, our pH levels have been dropping the last couple of years.” The Moreaus waited until late September to commence picking in 2012, and by the time selectivity and this team’s rigorous viticultural regimen was added to the vicissitudes of the vintage, yields were way down, in ex
Christian and Fabien Moreau – for more about whose evolution consult inter alia my reports on their 2008s in issues 179, 186 and 191 – are now confidently in command of their medium and style, managing to derive richness and structure from contact with lees and oak for the most part without sacrificing the mineral dimension or refreshing primary juiciness nor the sense of clarity for which Chablis at its striking best is known. Among the success factors at what has already become one of the poster children for a new Chablis quality-consciousness are a distinctively different assortment of barrels and tonneliers as well as a tendency to permit an increased share of the wines’ elevages to take place in tank. But vineyard work – now organic – is almost certainly also playing an important role in the Moreau’s success story, and their notably successful 2011s perfectly illustrate Fabien Moreau’s own assessment that “apropos the level of tension exhibited in our wines, our pH levels have been dropping the last couple of years.” The Moreaus waited until late September to commence picking in 2012, and by the time selectivity and this team’s rigorous viticultural regimen was added to the vicissitudes of the vintage, yields were way down, in ex
