Chablis Bougros Joseph Drouhin 2011
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Chablis Bougros Joseph Drouhin 2011
HED51721
75 cl
£82.60
Taxes included.
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92 Vinous
The 2011 Chablis Bougros is the most reticent of the Grand Crus at this stage. Initially a bit on the ethereal side, the Bougros opens up slightly with time in the glass, but it remains dominated by structural elements that need time to fully integrate. Antonio Galloni1st August 2013
90 Jancis Robinson
There is a faint overlay of oak to the Drouhin Vaudon 2011 Chablis Bougros, but while this might slightly affect the wine’s sense of primary juiciness and reinforce its citrus pip bitterness, it is more discreet and better-integrated than in the corresponding Vaudesir. Fresh lemon and apple are suffused with chalk and iodine, a stony undertone lending a somber sense to this palpably dense, firm bottling; though happily its relative alcoholic levity and tart edges help enliven a prolonged, piquant finish. I would tentatively plan to follow this through 2018.
The still delightfully rustic, old-fashioned, very discreetly-marked Moulin de Vaudon in Chichee that Robert Drouhin purchased in the 1960s as an act of faith in Chablis’s revival, and the vineyards he assembled scattered throughout that region, have been the under the eye of Loire-born Regisseur Denis Mery since 1990, while Frederic Drouhin nowadays sees to vinification. Mery emphasizes how lucky he is to have had his earliest training with the Gambier family in Bourgueil “because they were pre-chemical and I learned the ancient methods and vine treatments from them.” Today the Drouhin estate’s vines are biodynamically farmed and hand-manicured by a full-time crew of 24 – the grand crus and the Vaudesir with horse – and Mery was proud to show me his meticulously-kept viticultural records as well as the Drouhin Vaudon old vine holdings in Les Clos, which visitors will find a strikingly contrast to those of their immediate neighbors. As evidence of Mery’s creative, old-is-young-again anachronism, he has even planted a tiny stand near his home in Milly en echalas – i.e. trained to solo poles in the manner still familiar from Cote Rotie or the Mosel. Mery doesn’t deny that 2012 – when he began picking already the 19th of September – posed special challenges to biodynamic growers; and the results here – occasionally hinting at the botrytis to which he testified – are mixed. Finished alcohols are in the 13.5% ran
The still delightfully rustic, old-fashioned, very discreetly-marked Moulin de Vaudon in Chichee that Robert Drouhin purchased in the 1960s as an act of faith in Chablis’s revival, and the vineyards he assembled scattered throughout that region, have been the under the eye of Loire-born Regisseur Denis Mery since 1990, while Frederic Drouhin nowadays sees to vinification. Mery emphasizes how lucky he is to have had his earliest training with the Gambier family in Bourgueil “because they were pre-chemical and I learned the ancient methods and vine treatments from them.” Today the Drouhin estate’s vines are biodynamically farmed and hand-manicured by a full-time crew of 24 – the grand crus and the Vaudesir with horse – and Mery was proud to show me his meticulously-kept viticultural records as well as the Drouhin Vaudon old vine holdings in Les Clos, which visitors will find a strikingly contrast to those of their immediate neighbors. As evidence of Mery’s creative, old-is-young-again anachronism, he has even planted a tiny stand near his home in Milly en echalas – i.e. trained to solo poles in the manner still familiar from Cote Rotie or the Mosel. Mery doesn’t deny that 2012 – when he began picking already the 19th of September – posed special challenges to biodynamic growers; and the results here – occasionally hinting at the botrytis to which he testified – are mixed. Finished alcohols are in the 13.5% ran
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