Jacques Puffeney Arbois Vin Jaune 2010

Though he officially retired in 2014 after his 52nd vintage, Jacques Puffeney is widely regarded as one of the Jura’s finest and most thoughtful winemakers. The majority of his vineyards were sold to Domaine du Pélican but he still releases small amounts of Vin Jaune once they have completed their legally required seven-year maturation. This is a wonderfully intense and powerful wine from a ripe vintage yet in many ways it is also incredibly delicate and subtle. Its unique ageing process under a layer of flor in a relatively warm cellar concentrates the flavours and gives a beautifully savoury, umami profile, with flavours not too dissimilar to fine amontillado sherry. At best when served with food, a classic pairing would be with aged Comté cheese, but it would work brilliantly with creamy dishes including wild mushrooms.