Exploring the 2019 vintage at Boekenhoutskloof Winery
Established in 1776, Boekenhoutskloof is situated in South Africa’s breath-taking Franschhoek Valley and is known for its celebrated portfolio of wines comprising the eponymous Boekenhoutskloof range, The Chocolate Block, The Wolftrap and the larger volume brand of Porcupine Ridge. The allure of Boekenhoutskloof’s 2019 release was not to be passed by on a cold January morning and Hedonism Wines were delighted to be invited to the 2019 vintage launch. Hosted by Tim Atkin MW and Marc Kent, (Technical Director at Boekenhoutskloof) we greatly enjoyed discovering all that this celebrated South African producer had to offer:
‘Boekenhoutstoof epitomises all that is good about new winemaking in South Africa’
In the words of Tim Atkin, Boekenhoutstoof ‘epitomises all that is good about new winemaking in South Africa’. Boekenhoutskloof Technical Director, Marc Kent, who joined the company in 1994, has been key in making Boekenhoutstoof one of the leading names in South Africa. Kent, together with chief winemaker, Gottfried Mocke, continually draw on their awareness of what is happening elsewhere on the South African wine scene, as well as innovations in the wine industry more globally, to produce inimitable, globally sought-after wines.
Despite its ‘Mediterranean’ climate, South Africa has suffered the devastating climatic influences of drought and fires in the ever warming climate of the last decade. The great vintages are considered to be 2005, 2009, 2015, and 2017, with the latter falling in the middle of the harsh drought years which had a devastating effect on South African producers. According to Marc however, it was Boekenhoutskloof’s ability to adapt their practices (viticultural approach, picking and sorting) to these conditions that enabled the 2017 vintage to be so successful. Building on this success, the 2019 vintage is one of great elegance. The Swartland Syrah is particularly celebrated, whilst good rains in early February helped the Cabernet Sauvignon to ripen well too. Marc has been at the forefront of introducing the best new technologies to his winery, for example in 1997 he was the first to introduce a mechanised grape sorting table to South Africa, thus raising the quality levels of the wines produced. More recently Boekenhoutskloof has seen the development of a state-of-the-art winery, whose design was inspired by Marc’s extensive travels and experiences of wineries across the globe.
And now, on to the wines…
Boekenhoutskloof, Semillon 2019
A unique blend of 3 parcels of old vine Franschhoek Semillon (1902, 1936, 1942), with a glorious dash of 3% old vine Muscat d’Alexandrie. The Muscat grapes are whole-bunch fermented separately in amphorae, lending a touch of orange peel to the finish together with refreshing racy acidity. The percentage of Muscat can be traced back to the traditional use of variety in South African field blends. Expressing a crystalline purity of fruit, the old vine Semillon is matured in 70% new French oak barriques which lends texture and beautifully integrated new oak character. Blocked malolactic conversion prevents an unwanted creaminess serving as a distraction from this clean, refreshing style, concluding on a wonderfully lingering finish.
A tale of two Cabernets - Boekenhoutskloof, Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon and Franschhoek Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
Boekenhoutskloof have produced two unique Cabernet Sauvignons in the 2019 vintage, one from Stellenbosch and the other from Franschhoek. Both wines contain a small percentage of Cabernet Franc, lending an herbaceous freshness to the wines. The 2019 Stellenbosch is produced from vineyards on the renowned slopes of the Helderberg mountain and the south-eastern facing slope of the Polkadraai Hills. In the words of Marc Kent, ‘The Helderberg is to Stellenbosch what the Médoc is to Bordeaux’. An enticing bouquet of blackcurrant and smoky expresso notes, together with floral and violet tones, a wonderful sweetness of fruit and Earl Grey tea complexity. Elegant and approachable now, but with 75% new oak, this wine has the structure and plushness of body to age. In contrast, the 2019 Franschhoek has a sweeter, more dominantly sweet cassis nose, with fine dry tannins, more pronounced acidity and leafier, greener, herbal notes, with chocolate and cigar smoke complexity.
Boekenhoutskloof’s flagship variety: Syrah
Marc put Syrah on the map with his legendary 1997 vintage and this is the estate’s flagship variety. The 2019 Boekenhoutskloof Syrah boasts a glorious blue-fruited vibrancy, with a heady perfume of lavender, rose and incense, followed by an alluring spice and warmth on the palate accompanied by savoury tannins. With no new oak used, this South African producer uses the 2019 vintage to show the true integrity of the Syrah varietal: the 60% whole bunch clusters used in fermentation results in a glorious alluring sweetness of red berry fruit.
Concluding on a sweet note with the Boekenhoutskloof Noble Late Harvest 2018
A thin-skinned variety, Semillon’s susceptibility to noble rot make is particularly well suited to the production of sweet wines. The 2018 Noble Late Harvest is produced from old vine Semillon (first planted in 1997), grown on Boekenhoutskloof’s unique 0.96 ha vineyard. The vines are situated on alluvial soils on the banks of the Franschhoek River. Matured on lees for 30 months prior to maturation, the 2018 is the latest release. A Barsac-style sweet wine, with luscious notes of apricots, lemon peel and glorious millefleur honey character. Structured by a welcome firmness of acidity which lends freshness and balance to the 135.5g/l residual sugar.
These exciting new releases truly encapsulate the brilliance of this South African producer and the wide range of styles and produced. These are wines that are true expressions of terroir, varietal character and winemaking influence. Discover the Boekenhoutskloof range we stock at Hedonism Wines.
Article produced with thanks to New Generation Wines for the invite to the 2019 Vintage Tasting and Webinar held at 67 Pall Mall, 25th January 2022.